Chemical Raw Material Trading
In 1987, Taiwan experienced rapid growth in the export of color cosmetics to the United States. At that time, the Americas were one of Taiwan’s major export markets, while most of the raw materials and technologies used by Taiwan’s cosmetics industry came from Japan.
Production equipment in the industry was relatively basic. Most factories used direct gas heating. Castor oil was commonly used as the primary base oil, while Carnauba Wax and Beeswax were the main waxes used to adjust the melting point.
High-temperature processing often caused oils and fats to deteriorate and become rancid, with increased levels of free fatty acids, resulting in a relatively short shelf life for finished products. After several months of storage, products often developed musty or rancid odors. In more serious cases, preservative failure and loss of active ingredient stability could lead to mold growth, with scattered, non-crystalline, fluffy mycelial growth appearing on the product surface.
Some manufacturers attempted to address these problems by continuously increasing the amount of preservatives, sometimes even exceeding standard limits. However, product stability remained poor. In severe cases, crystallization or preservative precipitation (“blooming”) could occur within only one or two months, producing white spots on the surface that resembled mold.
Because the products often appeared normal when they arrived at the customer’s port, deterioration was sometimes not discovered until the products were stored in the customer’s warehouse or had already reached retail stores, resulting in significant losses.
We provided technical guidance to many customers to adjust their wax systems by using Candelilla Wax as the primary wax and Carnauba Wax as the secondary wax, together with staged heating and temperature control, maintaining the oil-phase temperature at approximately 70°C.
These improvements effectively resolved stability problems that had affected many cosmetic manufacturers in Taiwan for a long time.
Import & Export of Chemical Raw Materials and Finished Cosmetic Products
At the request of our Hong Kong customers, we established a sample showroom in Hong Kong.
We introduced Taiwan-made plastic cosmetic packaging, chemical raw materials, and various color cosmetic BULK formulations to foreign-invested companies that were establishing manufacturing facilities in Mainland China.
During this period, we also began planning the establishment of manufacturing facilities in Mainland China for the production of chemical raw materials and color cosmetic BULK.
After 1999, in addition to re-exporting imported raw materials to Mainland China, our business expanded to include the export of finished cosmetic products and synthetic raw materials manufactured by factories in Mainland China to customers in Europe, the United States, and Asia.
We also expanded our Hong Kong business team to develop and serve markets worldwide.
Production of Petroleum Jelly and Waxes / Cosmetic BULK Manufacturing
When we began manufacturing in Mainland China, we found that the local production technology was even less developed than what we had encountered in Taiwan during our earlier years.
At that time, Mainland China had only recently begun its economic opening, while market demand was growing rapidly. We therefore established an education and training system within the factory to provide the professional knowledge and practical skills required for cosmetic manufacturing.
From 1995 to 2003, nearly 10,000 young people received training through this system.
Today, several hundred of them remain active in Mainland China as business owners, R&D managers, and industry professionals. Many have become well-known manufacturers, and companies founded by or associated with these former trainees now represent a significant share of the market.
At the same time, the factory manufactured lipstick BULK and provided customized color-matching services for the domestic Mainland China market. Customers could purchase fully color-matched BULK and carry out the subsequent filling and packaging processes themselves.
To meet the production conditions of Mainland Chinese factories and the needs of local consumers at that time, we developed what we called “Demolding Gloss + Mineral Lipstick.”
We developed mineral lipstick formulations using Squalane and 2-EHP esters as the primary oil-phase components, replacing the traditional castor-oil-based system.
We also utilized the physical effects of thermal expansion and contraction during molding and cooling to develop a process we called “demolding gloss.”
This process gave the surface of the lipstick bullet excellent smoothness and gloss after demolding, with an appearance similar to the smooth surface of an injection-molded plastic component.
Within only a few years, our annual sales of lipstick BULK in Mainland China reached approximately 230 metric tons. This technology continues to be used throughout the industry worldwide today.
Using similar formulation and material principles, we also produced mica petroleum jelly for fiber-optic cable applications, which was exported in large quantities to Taiwan.
At the same time, using Shell SEBS—with newer generations of this type of material now using SEPS for jelly crystal wax—we developed a transparent wax supplied to candle manufacturers for the production of transparent fragranced candles.
The transparent fragranced candles created a strong market response and became a popular product.
Finished Cosmetic Product Manufacturing — Mainly Exported to Europe and the United States
In 1998, we became a cooperative supplier to NYX during the early stage of the company’s development.
Working together with HCT and HCP in packaging design and manufacturing, we provided eyeshadow and blush packaging inspired by the market positioning of MAC. Instead of using a round compact, we developed a square compact structure with a window.
The products received a positive response after entering the U.S. market. From the beginning, our objective was to develop products positioned as an affordable alternative to MAC.
We adopted the latest spherical powder pressing technology, using surface treatment to create more spherical powder particles. This provided a silky application and allowed the powder to adhere closely and evenly to the skin, reducing uneven or patchy color application.
We subsequently introduced multi-color moisturizing lipsticks, lip pencils, long-lasting lip liners, eyeliners, shimmer eyeshadows, and baked eyeshadows.
We continued developing products in response to emerging market trends, making adjustments and innovations in formulations, application comfort, color standards, and production quality control.
This cooperation continued for more than a decade, until NYX was sold to the L'Oréal Group.
Beginning around 2000, as the Russian economy expanded, we exported a total of approximately 120 million lipsticks to Russia over the following years.
From 2008 to 2018, we continuously modified the formulations of long-lasting gel eyeliner pencils, gel eyeliners, and liquid eyeliners, addressing problems such as drying and shrinkage after extended storage.
The products received positive recognition within the industry and became very popular.
Customers from the United Kingdom, United States, Australia, Southeast Asia, Mainland China, and other markets subsequently purchased these products, with annual exports reaching more than 3 million pieces.
Among these customers was the UK brand Sleek. Following its market success, Sleek was later acquired by WBA.
Subsequently, ABH, several Chinese brands, and other well-known emerging brands also purchased products from us through various channels.
In 2013, we introduced a complete series of long-lasting cosmetic products.
Among the products that became particularly popular were long-lasting silky liquid foundation, cream foundation, pressed powder, long-lasting moisturizing lip color, and long-lasting moisturizing lipstick.
These products were exported to the United States, United Kingdom, Israel, Mexico, Romania, and Russia.
From 2016 to 2018, we developed a liquid-crystal emulsified lip balm.
Several brands in Mainland China used products based on this formulation technology for domestic sales as well as exports to Europe and the United States.
One product based on this technology achieved annual sales of approximately RMB 700 million.
Cosmetic Raw Materials and BULK Sales in Mainland China
Guangdong Yanka Trading Co., Ltd. was established in response to customer requirements and changes in Mainland China’s business regulations.
We established a trading division to sell imported cosmetic raw materials and cosmetic BULK produced by Straight & Fortunate Chemical Factory in Mainland China.
We also imported nail polish BULK and color concentrates from European and American nail polish manufacturers, provided technical guidance, and supplied these materials to nail polish factories in Mainland China.
At one point, annual sales reached approximately 32 containers of nail polish BULK and color concentrates.
1997–2020
GUANGZHOU ELEGANCE COSMETIC FACTORY
Manufacturing of finished cosmetic products — our products were marketed worldwide, including Europe, the United States, Japan, South Korea, Australia, Russia, the Middle East, Africa, and Southeast Asia.
In 1998, during the early development of the NYX brand, we became one of its major business partners and suppliers. With the exception of nail polish, most of the products we supplied to NYX involved our own innovative formula development and design. Even the packaging containers and exterior designs were specially developed with HCT and HCP. Instead of using the same round powder compacts as MAC, we developed new square plastic compacts with windows. Many of these concepts were jointly discussed and developed with NYX founder Toni Ko as part of a complete product-line concept.
At that time, the market positioning was very clear: to develop products that offered strong value for money while serving as an affordable alternative to the MAC brand.
For powder products such as eyeshadows and blushes, we adopted advanced airflow technology to first produce spherical powder particles, which were then molded into shape. Through surface-treatment processes, the characteristics of the spherical powders were further optimized.
This gave the products a silky-smooth feel while allowing the powders to adhere closely and evenly to the skin. In addition, the process enhanced the hydrophobic properties of the products, ensuring a fine, even, and smooth makeup finish with excellent skin adhesion.
We subsequently launched a series of products, including multi-color moisturizing lipsticks, lip pencils, long-lasting lip liners, eyeliners, pearl eyeshadows, and baked eyeshadows.
We closely followed emerging market trends, continuously developed new products, and continually optimized and innovated product formulations, application comfort, color standards, and production quality-control systems.
After these products entered the U.S. market, they were well received and continued to achieve substantial year-on-year sales growth for more than a decade.
Our cooperation with NYX lasted for more than ten years and officially ended only after NYX was acquired by the L'Oréal Group.
Around 2000, as the Russian economy grew, we exported approximately 170 million lipsticks to the Russian market over the following several years. At the peak of exports, we shipped one 40-foot container of products every four days. Even by 2018, we were still exporting approximately five to seven containers of products to Russia each year.
In addition, we collaborated with a beauty school in Tokyo, Japan, continuously developing new products according to its requirements. Although the school's purchasing volume was relatively small, this collaboration remained an important source of inspiration for our new product development and R&D.
We also established cooperative relationships with three Australian brands, including the century-old Ross brand, providing formulations that met their high-end product requirements.
We worked with a client in Kenya, Africa, whose brand operated counters in local high-end department stores. We also cooperated with the Israeli brand BOAZ, supplying it with a complete range of beauty and color cosmetic products.
The brand operated beauty training classes in both the United States and Israel, and its founder, Boaz, was himself a well-known beauty professional.
From 2008 to 2018, we continuously improved the formulations of long-lasting gel eyeliner pencils, gel eyeliners, and liquid eyeliners to solve the problems of drying out and shrinkage after long-term storage.
These products gained strong recognition within the industry and became widely popular. Customers from the United Kingdom, the United States, Australia, Southeast Asia, Mainland China, and other markets purchased these products, with annual exports exceeding three million units.
Among them, the British brand Sleek achieved strong sales performance and was subsequently acquired by WBA. Thereafter, ABH, several Chinese brands, and other well-known emerging brands also purchased these products from us through various channels.
In 2013, we launched a complete series of long-lasting color cosmetic products. The most popular products included long-lasting silky liquid foundation, foundation cream, pressed powder, long-lasting moisturizing lip gloss, and long-lasting moisturizing lipstick.
These products were exported to the United States, the United Kingdom, Israel, Mexico, Romania, and Russia.
From 2016 to 2018, we developed a liquid-crystal emulsified lip balm. Several brands in Mainland China adopted this formulation technology, with their products sold both in the Chinese domestic market and in European and American markets.
One product based on this technology achieved annual sales of approximately RMB 700 million.
Through our cooperation with customers around the world, we were able to rapidly develop new formulations and new designs according to customer requirements while maintaining strict quality control.
We were able to quickly fulfill the requirements of customers around the world for new formulations, new designs, and consistent product quality. Due to changes in Mainland China's policies, we brought this chapter to a close in 2019 and discontinued our factory investment in Mainland China.
In 2020, we officially returned to Taiwan and transformed our operations into a technology R&D center, focusing primarily on research into the relationship between immune balance × the cellular growth environment and mitochondria, as well as the purification of plant peptides and the application of microencapsulation technology.
2020–2026
ENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY AND CELL REPAIR
Peptides and Cosmetics · Health Product Research
The COVID-19 pandemic brought many activities to a halt. During the pandemic, Professor Cheng's research team at the College of Life Science, National Taiwan Normal University published a widely noted study in the internationally recognized journal Antioxidants on the inhibition of coronavirus.
The study reported that polyphenolic catechins extracted from green tea could inhibit coronavirus replicase, effectively interfere with viral replication, strengthen immune mechanisms, and improve acute lung injury and immune storms caused by COVID-19 or SARS.
At that time, we were also conducting research in Mainland China on plant peptides, catechins, dihydroquercetin (DHQ), and baicalin, including their mechanisms for interfering with viral replication.
Through extensive clinical observations, we found many effects. However, for various reasons, and after the PCR laboratory was dismantled, we returned to Taiwan to continue our experiments.
We also consulted and discussed our research with Professor Cheng and continued our studies. We found that the activity and effectiveness of some substances could degrade due to certain factors, accompanied by changes in color.
At present, we have achieved breakthroughs in encapsulation and purification technologies, and the activity and effectiveness have also achieved very good stability.
At present, we have begun applying our R&D findings to cosmetic formulation technologies. These formulations have also undergone numerous clinical trials and have received consistently positive feedback from the participants.
For reference, we have provided below a brief explanation and illustration of the relationship between the cellular growth environment and mitochondria.
The cellular growth environment directly affects the metabolism and functional activity of mitochondria—the “powerhouses” of the cell—while mitochondria, in turn, regulate cellular survival and adaptation.
Effects of Oxygen Concentration (Hypoxia and Normoxia)
Normal oxygen conditions: Mitochondria use oxygen for aerobic respiration, producing large amounts of ATP, the energy required for normal cellular growth and function.
Hypoxic conditions: When cells are exposed to low-oxygen conditions, mitochondrial function becomes restricted, and cells shift toward glycolysis (anaerobic metabolism) to obtain energy. For example, in certain microenvironments, some tumor or cancer cells exhibit reduced mitochondrial function and consequently shift toward glycolysis to sustain their growth.
Changes in Nutrient and Energy Supply
Changes in nutrient preference: The amount and type of nutrients surrounding cells, such as glucose and fatty acids, can alter the metabolic “reprogramming” of mitochondria.
External stimuli and autophagy: External conditions such as fasting or endurance exercise can stimulate mitochondrial biogenesis and renewal through autophagy, helping remove damaged mitochondria and improve overall function.